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Bolivia is a wonderful and still very safe country - an excellent tourist destination for those looking for something a bit off the beaten track.
Here a few tips and comments about traveling in Bolivia:
When to Come: High season is roughly June-August with the bulk of travelers being European mountain climbers. This is when accommodations are most difficult to find and most expensive. La Paz, in particular, can be pretty full this time of year. Remember, the seasons are the opposite of those in the Northern Hemisphere, so a "summer" vacation from the north will put you in the middle of Bolivian winter.
What To Wear: Don't succumb to the common misconception that Bolivia is "tropical". While some areas are tropical and generally hot (such as Santa Cruz and Beni), much of the country is very high, and subject to temperate to very, very cold temperatures, especially in the winter. The high altitude makes temperatures feel colder than they read on the thermometer. For any time of year bring at least some warm clothes or plan on buying a few nice sweaters if you'll be in La Paz. Even Santa Cruz can have viciously cold spells in winter.
Where to Stay: I've found that a good strategy is to find somewhere central and safe for the first night or two and spend some time the next day picking and choosing for the remainder of your stay. Don't get locked into one choice! On my last visit to La Paz I spent the first night in one Hotel and then found another, centrally located, with hot water, very clean, overhanging balconies - for $5 less! I've had good luck at Hostal Naira in La Paz, and Hotel Copacabana in Santa Cruz.
How to get around: Overland travel in Bolivia is VERY arduous and somewhat dangerous. The La Paz to Yungas road is considered the most dangerous in the world - not due to crime but due to the poor road conditions and huge drop offs. Be prepared for long, dusty ride if you're going anywhere out off the main routs of La Paz - Oruro - Cochabamba - Santa Cruz. For instance, while La Paz to Oruro is a relatively quick 2 hour jaunt over paved roads, La Paz - Tarija is a 28 hour journey over the dustiest and most curved roads I've ever seen - and Tarija is considered a main city. For better scenery try to get the infrequent daytime rides. Day trips are slightly more dangerous because many accidents on the VERY curvy roads occur when vehicles crash coming around corners - at night headlights are visible. For night trips ALWAYS carry heavy clothing and blankets. The high altitude causes temperatures to drop significantly at night. If you get on a night bus and it's 95 in the shade, bring a wool sweater and a blanket anyway. When traveling overland in Bolivia, buses to major destinations leave from a central bus terminal. YES the price difference is indicative of the quality of the bus. I advise you to pay the difference, for a more comfortable and safer ride. More expensive buses lines tend to be better maintained. Minor destinations often have different launch points that most hotels and tour guides can point out to you. Air travel is a smart move if you're on a short trip, or aren't willing to put up with the dangers and arduousness of the overland trips.
Safety: While crime is still not a large problem in Bolivia, the incidence is increasing, particularly in Santa Cruz. Be careful and take the same precautions you would while travelling anywhere in Latin America. While no taxi is a guarantee, "Radio Taxis" are much safer than normal taxis. You can tell by the presence of a CB and antenna, and usually a placard with a phone number and logo on it. Have your hotel call you one if you're unsure. Also, be careful about your final destination point on smaller buses. I've had folk try to convince me to get out at places I knew were miles from my destination. If the bus stops at a midpoint and everyone gets off, it's likely either a mechanical problem you'll have to wait out, or more likely a food stop. Enjoy - but make sure you don't miss the bus out or get on the wrong one!! Petty theft is more common than violent crime, but neither is unheard of. Women travelling alone, especially overland or hiking are taking more risk that they probably should.
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